Winter Squash Soup

Winter Squash Soup

When you halve a squash and carve out its seeds, you’re left with a hollow vessel that can absorb flavor as it cooks. For our winter squash soups, we stuff the centers of each squash half with aromatics, then cook the squash cut-side down, trapping the aromatics so they steam and infuse their flavor into the vegetables’ flesh. Every variety makes a slightly different soup, so use this recipe as a starting point and explore what you can find, adjusting the amount of liquid as needed depending on how much flesh each squash yields. We mostly use squash varieties such as a French potimarron, which is similar to red kuri squash, or Hubbard, Muscade, Courge Musquée Duchesne, or kabocha. (You could also use butternut squash, although you’ll need to cut the onions smaller in that case, because the squash’s cavity is smaller, and the squash will likely take longer to roast.)

Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6 as a first course or main course

1 winter squash (6 to 7 pounds / about 3 kg), such as Muscade, red kuri, Hubbard, or kabocha
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Fleur de sel and freshly ground black pepper
4 to 6 cloves garlic, smashed
2 medium yellow onions, peeled and cut into quarters
3 sage sprigs, plus 8 to 12 leaves for garnish
6 thyme sprigs
2 fresh bay leaves
1 quart (960 ml) chicken stock, homemade preferred, or water, plus more as needed
Neutral frying oil, such as organic canola oil
½ cup (120 ml) high-quality whole-milk crème fraîche

Preparation

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Cut the squash in half stem to root and scrape out all of the seeds. Generously drizzle the inside with olive oil, rubbing it into the flesh, so it’s all nicely coated. Season generously with fleur de sel and pepper.

2. On the lined sheet pan, divide the garlic, onions, sage, thyme, and bay leaves into 2 piles. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Turn the squash halves cut-side down over each pile of aromatics, so the aromatics are trapped in the cavity of each squash half. Roast in the oven until the squash is tender when poked with a paring knife, 30 to 40 minutes.

3. Remove from the oven and carefully turn over the squash halves to allow them to release their steam and cool. Once cool enough to handle, scrape out the inside flesh of the squash and add it to a 7-quart (6.6-L) or similar-size Dutch oven or heavy pot, along with the roasted garlic and onion. (Discard the remaining aromatics and the squash skins.) Add the chicken stock, bring to a simmer over medium heat, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes to let the flavors meld.

4. Meanwhile, line a sheet pan with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel and set nearby. Pour about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of frying oil into a small saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat until it reaches 350°F (175°C). Working in batches, a few of the sage leaves at a time, add them to the oil (carefully, as they may sputter) and fry for 10 seconds or so, just until they crisp and turn a slight shade darker. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the leaves to the paper towels to drain. Sprinkle each leaf with fleur de sel.

5. Transfer the soup to a blender and blend until smooth, in batches if necessary, adding a bit more stock if needed to thin it enough to blend. Season and serve immediately with a dollop of crème fraîche and fried sage leaves, plus a swirl of olive oil and a bit of fleur de sel.

Notes

Allow any leftover soup to cool to room temperature, then transfer to a sealed container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.